Kadir van Lohuizen: “We’re trapped in a system where the cheapest and easiest option is the most destructive one”

Over the years, you’ve focused on all kinds of global themes. When did you decide the food system would be your next subject?

“This idea grew gradually. In the 1990s, I was reporting on forgotten conflicts, such as the civil wars in Angola, Mozambique, and Sierra Leone. At first, I was only documenting what was happening, but over time, I began to explore the root causes of the violence. Often, it came down to resources, but I also started to see how much instability the climate crisis was causing. Gradually, therefore, my work started to broaden, focusing more on these interconnected global issues.

One subject I spent years investigating was rising sea levels. Like many, I once thought it was a problem for the distant future. But during my travels, it became clear that it’s already disrupting lives. This made me reflect on the food security I took for granted whilst growing up. With climate change, extreme weather patterns, and coastal salinisation, that security is no longer assured.

At the same time, we’ve become completely disconnected from our food. When I was young, we ate vegetables that were in season, and we knew where they came from. Today, most children don’t even recognise a head of endive because everything comes pre-washed and pre-packaged. Even worse, we’ve come to expect mangoes and avocados all year round – even though two decades ago, most people didn’t even know what a mango was. Due to all of this, my curiosity about the food system kept growing, and I realised: if I’m asking myself these questions, others surely must be too.”

For Food for Thought, you travelled to the US, Kenya, China, Saudi Arabia and the United Arab Emirates, but you began in the Netherlands.

“When I started this project, I thought: the Netherlands will just be one of the chapters. But then the pandemic hit. Normally, I spend seven or eight months a year abroad, only returning to the Netherlands to do my laundry, so to speak. Suddenly, I had to reinvent myself. I decided to make the most of it and start in my home country, thinking the pandemic would only last a few weeks… Ultimately, it was a blessing in disguise, because otherwise, I would have never gained such an in-depth understanding of the Dutch food system.”

What did you discover?

“At first, gaining access was nearly impossible. I’m no stranger to covering complex stories, but I’ve never faced so much mistrust. At the time, the debate around food and agriculture in the Netherlands was deeply polarised, due to the rise of a populist farmers’ party, the BBB, and farmers blocking highways with their tractors to protest against environmental policies. Whilst no other country has as many livestock per kilometre as the Netherlands, and most of it is destined for export… The whole situation just emphasized how relevant the topic was.

But whenever I approached someone, they immediately assumed I was out to expose scandals or wrongdoings, even though I was just curious. Of course, I had my own views — and I have even stronger opinions now — but my goal was simply to show how our food is being produced. Look, and decide for yourself. It’s not my job to tell people to go vegan.

After a few months, I managed to connect with more people, which enabled me to say, ‘I’ve already been allowed in here and there — why can’t I come to you?’ Once inside, however, I found myself in highly controlled environments. Free movement was out of the question; I was always accompanied, and more often than not, someone was constantly checking their watch to hurry me along…”

What surprised you most once you got inside?

“Most people know that our food system is large-scale and highly industrialised. But you don’t really understand the extent of it until you’re in the middle of it. Sure, we see the endless stream of greenhouses, and we’re aware of the existence of industrial livestock farms. But once you step inside of one, it’s impossible to grasp how many pigs they actually pack into a single stable…

Time and time again, I was shocked by the stark contrast between the marketing image of our food industry and the daily reality of it. Because when we go to the supermarket, we’re meant to feel like everything is ‘okay’ – with all sorts of labels and certifications constantly reassuring us. Meanwhile, the reality couldn’t be more different. In the United States I even visited a farm with 250,000 cows, all confined to feedlots. When I arrived, the owner told me, ‘I wouldn’t walk if I were you – it’ll take hours. It’s better to drive.’ Moments like that make you wonder: how did we end up here?”

On the other hand, did you also gain more empathy for farmers?

“Definitely. During Food for Thought, I met numerous farmers, both in the Netherlands and abroad, many of whom have transitioned to mixed or organic farming, and who are genuinely moving in the right direction. On top of that, I met many others who want to make meaningful changes, but are trapped by financial constraints.

Though the big question that kept haunting me was: why do we need to export all of this? Because the amount we export, we subsequently also import. That whole system is wildly out of balance. In Kenya, for example, workers earn just two or three dollars a day to harvest our green beans, and to slice and package our mango cubes. Even there, those wages are completely unrealistic. Yet if their wages would double, we would stop buying these products, because we would find them too expensive. It’s a painful echo of our colonial past.”

Are shorter supply chains the solution?

“That’s something that China has been heavily investing in, which made me curious to visit it for this project. Because how is a country with limited arable land and a population of 1.4 billion people addressing this challenge? Even before the pandemic, I heard that the Chinese were shortening supply chains and reducing their reliance on food imports, which turned out to be true. Around cities, they’ve established greenhouse zones to grow fresh produce as close to the residents as possible.

What fascinated me most was how advanced they are in certain areas, particularly in relation to AI and automation. Of course, you can debate about this – can you even grow lettuce in a closed-off box? Surely, it’s less nutritious and less tasty than lettuce that’s grown in healthy soil? On the other hand, in places where space is at a premium, innovations like these could be part of the solution.”

After everything you’ve seen, are you hopeful about the food system?

“Overall, I think food is still a hopeful subject, more so than climate change, for example. When reporting on the rising sea levels, I often noticed a sense of resignation in people. They’d say to me: ‘We’re past the tipping point, so what difference does it make if I fly or not?’

But with food, we haven’t reached that point yet. We can all reflect on what we eat, where it comes from, and whether that makes sense or not. But it does require stepping out of our comfort zones. We all know we need to eat less meat and choose more local products. At the same time, I also understand how difficult this can be, given that we’re trapped in a system where the cheapest and easiest options are often the most destructive.

Even the big players in agribusiness acknowledge that change is necessary. I faced huge resistance in gaining access at first, but now I’m regularly invited to speak in front of their management teams. As long as I’m not censored or forced to submit my presentation in advance, I’m happy to do so. Because behind closed doors, everyone knows the current system is unsustainable.”

What drives you personally to tackle such vast themes?

“It’s that sense of wonder and curiosity. If I ever lost that, I’d need to find something else to do. As a photographer and filmmaker, you have to be curious. And the camera is your excuse to get into places. Of course, there are times when nothing seems to work, and you’re lying awake at night thinking, ‘No one will care about this’, or when you’re struggling to gain access. In those moments, it’s sheer determination that keeps me going. As consumers, surely we have the right to know what’s really going on?”

Want to learn more about Food for Thought? Visit the exhibition at the National Maritime Museum in Amsterdam (extended due to popular demand until January 5, 2025) or order the book and receive a signed copy.

Translated on the 2nd of December 2024 by: Nadine Maarhuis